Chilli Stash

beat the cold

Some chillies are practically made for drying. Kashmiri and Chinese Facing Heaven chillies, for example, are traditionally dried because their flavour develops beautifully in the process. They become richer and more concentrated, and can be stored for months.

You don't need a dehydrator either. Many air fryers now have a dehydration setting, so it's worth checking yours. Otherwise, a cardboard box in a warm, dry, well-ventilated spot can work well. I cut the tops clean off my chillies to help moisture escape from inside, and check and turn them regularly.

Thin-walled chillies dry much faster than thick, fleshy varieties, which can take considerably longer. Make sure they're completely dry before storing them, with no soft or damp flesh remaining.

And don't just dry the obvious varieties! Lemon Aji makes a fantastic golden-yellow powder with a citrusy kick, particularly good as a fish rub. It also looks spectacular in a little glass jar. Even fleshy chinense varieties like Peach Fatalii and Nazgûl's Breakfast can be dried, although they'll need more patience.

Once dried, keep them whole or grind them into flakes or powders. Whole chillies hold onto their aroma longer, so I prefer to grind them as I need them.

There's something rather satisfying about having a few jars of pickled chillies tucked away. A handful of crunchy chilli rings can turn an ordinary burger, pizza or cheese sandwich into something special, and they're particularly welcome in the middle of winter when the fresh harvest is a distant memory.

Some chillies are especially good for pickling, particularly those with thick, crisp flesh. But you really can't go wrong with a good old green Jalapeño. I love the way pickling gives you that sharp, tangy flavour alongside the heat, and it's ridiculously easy to do. You can recycle old jars too.

For a simple sweet pickling brine, I use: 250ml of 5% white vinegar, 250ml of water, 75–100g of sugar, a tablespoon of salt.

Bring everything to the boil, stirring until dissolved, then pour over slit chillies packed into jars (don't bother slitting the small ones). A few peppercorns, bay leaves or yellow mustard seeds are lovely additions too.

The vinegar provides the acidity, while the sugar takes the edge off the sharpness. You can adjust the sweetness to suit your taste. Keep these quick pickles refrigerated and give them a couple of days for the flavours to develop. It's a lovely way to use up a glut, and once you've got a jar in the fridge, you'll find yourself adding them to all sorts of things!

Jams, sauces and jellies are probably my favourite way to make use of superhot chillies. Varieties like Carolina Reaper, Bhut Jolokia, Chocolate Douglah and 7 Pot are often far too hot to eat in any quantity, but turn them into a jam or sauce and you can really begin to appreciate their extraordinary, complex flavours. Even the humble Habanero has a wonderful fruity character that deserves exploring.

This is also where you can have some fun experimenting. Superhots often have wonderful tropical and fruity notes, so try combining them with mango, pineapple or passion fruit. The trick is to balance the sweetness, acidity and heat without losing those lovely chilli flavours. I prefer to add my chillies towards the end of cooking, as prolonged boiling can drive off some of their more delicate aromas.

Jams and jellies take a little practice, particularly when it comes to getting them to set, but added pectin can make life much easier. Sauces offer even more possibilities, including fermentation, which develops a whole different range of flavours.

And here's the real bonus. Just twenty superhot chillies can be enough to make nearly a dozen jars of jam, depending on your recipe. That's a winter's supply of something delicious, or a collection of wonderfully personal, inexpensive presents. Here's a simple recipe for habanero jelly.